Reset rain fall total proceedure for WUHU

This procedure also applies to all La Crosse station types as well.

1) On WUHU Tweak screen, click “Disable all rainfall reporting”. Hit
Save changes to exit tweak screen.

2) Exit WUHU.

3) Reset your console total (for La Crosse users, run HW or HW Pro and
right click the rain total button).

4) Once rain total is reset, run WUHU and allow it to receive a
complete update from the console (in the case of the WMR this may take
a minute for all of the data to fill in).

5) Enter Tweak screen, un-check “Disable all rainfall reporting”. Hit
Save Changes to exit the tweak screen.

WUHU Software + YoWindow

YoWindow is the new generation of weather program.
The magic of YoWindow is the living landscape that reflects actual weather

1. Install the latest YoWindow

Make sure the latest version of YoWindow is installed on your computer.
You can download it from:

2. Setup WUHU to export yowindow.xml

YoWindow can read the weather from WUHU through a file, composed in a special format – YoWindow weather file (yowindow.xml).
As far as configuring WUHU to generate a YoWindow XML file, you must first install the software then edit the INI configuration file: WUHU Configuration Data.ini

The file is located in the WUHU install directory that is:

C:\Program Files\WUHU
C:\Program Files (x86)\WUHU (64 bit Windows)

You can edit it with Notepad.
On Windows Vista and Windows 7 you need to have administrator rights to edit this file.

In the file, you need to create YoWindow section if it is not found in the file:


You may set any path to yowindow.xml you wish, but we will use the above path as an example through the tutorial.

YoWindowUseMetric determines whether the data is in English (YoWindowUseMetric=0) or Metric (YoWindowUseMetric=1) units.

YoWindowUseMETARWindData=1 will tell WUHU to not populate the wind data. In this case YoWindow will receive the wind data from the METAR station rather than the personal weather station. This is useful when the personal weather station is located where wind measurement is not ideal.

With these settings WUHU will start to generate yowindow.xml in C:\temp\yowindow.xml folder every minute.

Check this folder to make sure yowindow.xml is generated properly.

3. Register your weather station inside YoWindow
The final step – let YoWindow know yowindow.xml location.
Follow these steps: “Personal weather station (PWS) setup”
4. Add YoWindow to your website or blog.
YoWindow is not only a desktop weather station.
You can add YoWindow to your webpage!
Just like we do on
Here we will explain how to setup YoWindow weather widget for webpage and connect it to
your Davis station.

Add the widget to your web-page.
1. Setup YoWindow widget on this page.
2. Add widget HTML code to your webpage.
3. Upload the page to the server.
4. Make sure the widget is running on your page as expected.
Connect widget and WUHU.

IMPORTANT: Make sure you have an access to your website ROOT directory. If you don’t – you will not be able to connect WUHU and YoWindow widget.
Also you need to have an FTP access to your server and to have experience with FTP transfer tasks.

Make sure you have the latest version of WUHU installed. At least B140 required.
You can download the latest version of WUHU here

1. Setup WUHU to upload yowindow.xml to the server.

You need to add a special “YoWindowFTPFile1″ entry to [YoWindow] section of WUHU Configuration Data.ini

The entry will contain an FTP action to upload yowindow.xml file to your server.

Entry format is the following:

YoWindowFTPFile1=[:port[P]] [BINARY | ASCII] “localfile” “remotefile”

User – FTP user name

Password – FTP password – The FTP server to connect to

[:port[P]] – The FTP Port to connect to and whether to use Passive mode. The port is assumed to be the default of 21, and passive mode is not used. Passive mode may be required if you have firewall issues.

[BINARY | ASCII] – Optionally can change the file upload mode to binary or ASCII mode, binary mode is assumed. You can change modes between each local file and remote file pair.

“localfile” “remotefile” – The local file name on the PC to upload and the path and remote file that the file is uploaded to. You can have any number of local file and remote file pairs. Since most users will be uploading a single YoWindow.XML file to the server, only one pair of local and remote file specifications are needed.

YoWindowFTPFile1= "C:\temp\yowindow.xml" "\yowindow.xml"

This will upload the file C:\temp\yowindow.xml to the server ( with the remote file name \yowindow.xml using binary transfer mode (default). Note that \yownidow.xml specifies that the file is uploaded to the root folder on the server. The user name is myusername, the password is mypassword. The FTP client connects to the default port of 21 and passive mode is not used.

Note: The double quotes are required around the local and remote file names. The reason for this is that long file names and paths may contain spaces as is the case in the above example.


HOW TO: Configure Weather Underground / HeavyWeather Uploader (WUHU) software with Ambient Virtual Weather Station (VWS) Software

This procedure can be used to install and configure Weather Underground / HeavyWeather Uploader (WUHU) software

To a La Crosse WS-23XX or WS-36XX Professional Weather Station and interface with Ambient Virtual Weather Station (VWS) Software, and/or HeavyWeatherPublisher (HWPub) Software.

This procedure has been developed as a result of problems I encountered using HWPro with my La Crosse WS-3610 and VWS Software. These problems included loss of communications between the console and computer (after about 12-24 hours), a HWPro CPU usage of 99% every 10 seconds (quite the hog), and sporadic (-40deg) posts to the VWS software. After using this procedure with WUHU as the interface to my Weather Station, my communications are solid, CPU usage is 10-20% peak, and the VWS readings are also solid. While this has worked great for me, I do not make any guarantees or accept any responsibility for any problems you may encounter.

If your computer currently has HWPro, HWBeta, HWPublisher, and/or VWS running, close the programs.


Even though I closed HWPro, I found it was still running as a process. I used Task Manager to verify that each of these programs was not running as a process – and suggest you do the same before proceeding. I did not uninstall HWPro and all seems to work fine. You may want to uninstall to avoid conflicts.


Download WUHU software from the following location:

Unzip and install (install.exe) to your hard drive.


I installed WUHU on two different computers, one ran perfect, the other just sat there after I clicked install. There are a couple of programs that could possibly conflict with the install.exe from running (Outlook, ActiveCam, etc). Not a fault with the installer – it’s just a Windows software conflict! It was trial and error for me – closing processes in Task Manager until I found the problem item. Use caution as to what you close – or your system may become non-responsive!

Using Windows Explore or My Computer Navigate to the WUHU folder (mine was C:\Program Files\WUHU).
Copy “WUHU.exe” in the same folder.
Rename “Copy of WUHU.exe” to “heavyweather.exe“.
Launch the new “heavyweather.exe“ in the C:\Program Files\WUHU folder (not the old HWPro or HWBeta).
Click the “STOP” button (upper right).
In the GENERAL SETTINGS area (lower right):
Select WS23XX Direct Serial Access or WS36XX Direct Serial Access and the correct com port
Select “Write currdat.lst….” and CHANGE to C:\Program Files\WUHU\currdat.lst file in the WUHU directory.
Select “Write HeavyWeather Pro Compatible History.dat file” and CHANGE to C:\Program Files\WUHU\History.dat file in the WUHU directory.


If the files are not currently there – no worries. I just wrote them in and it creates them once launched. Pay

attention to case!

If you are uploading to CWOP, AWEKAS, or Wunderground sites follow the links and instructions provided to obtain
accounts and enter the correct login information (not required for WUHU to work with VWS or HWPublisher).


It is not necessary to use the upload to site feature for the interface to work with VWS or HWPublisher.

Click the “START” button (upper right).
Verify that the program starts acquiring data (see the Updates counter and weather data pane). Note that it takes up to 5-minutes to update the site counters if you selected them above. Leave WUHU running for about 5-minutes to create a History.dat file for later on.

If it does not start updating/displaying data – then make sure you selected the correct Com Port. Check
your serial cable, console, etc. The updates indicate that you are communicating with the console (which
is required before proceeding). I only got 1 error (the first read) and as you can see it’s been solid since.


Exit the WUHU program.


The WUHU Application will show as “Weather Underground / HeavyWeather Uploader” in the “Applications“ window of Task Manager ONLY when it is not minimized to the tray, but shows as HeavyWeather.exe ALWAYS in the “Processes“ window of Task Manager.

Launch the Ambient VWS Software.


If you had previously configured your VWS software to run from HWPro/HWBeta it will automatically launch the WUHU software.

Open the Communication Menu.

Select La Crosse WS23XX or WS36XX as required
Select “Launch HeavyWeather“.
Select “Heavy Weather Directory Location and CHANGE to C:\Program Files\WUHU.
Select “Heavy Weather History File Location” and CHANGE to C:\Program Files\WUHU\History.dat.

The History.dat file should be there if you left WUHU running for about 5-minutes

Close the window but do not restart VWS at this time if you are prompted.

Exit the VWS program (if it was not already closed when you closed the window)

Exit the WUHU program if open.

Launch the VWS program and verify:
WUHU automatically launches and starts acquiring weather data from your station.
VWS launches and populates with weather data from the WUHU history file.
No errors are displayed.
If not correct – you most likely did not wait for the history file to create. Give it some time to write the file before
you go back checking things out.
This step is important! When you installed WUHU, it placed a program call in the startup menu. When VWS opens,
it launches the renamed HeavyWeather.exe copy of WUHU. When you reboot your computer, it will start two
instances of WUHU, one connects to your station, one will give you a communication error (as only one can connect
to the station at a time). It took me a while to find this one as they will sit right on top of each other. As you know
removing things from a startup menu can be a pain. I have found that CCleaner is a great tool not only for removing
files and checking for issues, but also for registry and startup maintenance. Its freeware from . Select tools, then STARTUP, and delete the WUHU Software entry.
19. Launch the HWPublisher Software.
20. Select the OPTIONS menu:
a. Set “weather data filename“ to the C:\Program Files\WUHU\currdat.lst file in the WUHU directory.
b. Close the window and verify that the data in the pane updates.

If you use the “Start on Power Up” options in all these programs as I do, reboot your computer and verify:

WUHU automatically launches and starts acquiring weather data from your station .
VWS launches and populates with weather data from the WUHU history file (I run mine minimized so I just check my website).

HWPublisher (if used) launches and starts acquiring weather data from your station.
No errors are displayed.

I sure hope this works as well for you as it has for me. This setup seems to work great – and with one less CPU hog of a
program (HWPro)! My special thanks to WUHU Software for all his help and in developing a wonderful software product.
73 to all my Amateur Radio friends, and best wishes to all my weather friends.

Original Article was from:
Paul Herrman N0NBH/AS557 mailto: Information at:

Wind speed reading of 114.3 mph detected. Value out of range (0 to 111.8)


In my “tweak window”  I have fixed the “Reject max wind speeds above” to 50.0 mph, the ranges being accepted and collected should be “0 to 50.0″ and not “0 to 111.8″ ?

Am I right or not ?


I also see entries in my log:

                Wind speed reading of 114.3 mph detected. Value out of range (0 to 111.8)

What does this mean?



To the first question: Yes.   You are correct, the valid collection range will be from 0 -50.

The entry in the log

                Wind speed reading of 114.3 mph detected. Value out of range (0 to 111.8)

Is WUHU throwing away bad data that exceeded the normal input range of 0 to 111.8.  WUHU expects to see wind speeds ranging from 0-111.8, when it exceeds the 111.8 it will not log that data.  (The assumption is:  It is bad data.

LaCrosse WS-2810 Full Startup/Reset Procedure

  1. If the battery in the wind sensor has not charged in full sun (facing due south) for at least three days, do this first.
  2. For this procedure, chances of success are better when the distances between the display unit and other sensors relative to the temp/humidity sensor are within 50 feet. Line-of-sight orientation and fewest possible intervening obstructions are desirable. Further separation can be done after start-up.
  3. After solar battery is charged, go to the display unit and follow the following steps as, and in the order, listed.
  4. Press and hold the Set button. Release when the display ‘blanks out’.
  5. Repeatedly press and release Set button until the “rES off” message appears at bottom of screen.
  6. While in the “rES Off” mode, press and release the Up Arrow to change the message to “rES On”. Then press the Set button (once).
  7. A counter at the bottom of the page will now appear showing the value “127” and then it will begin counting down to “0”. When zero is reached, the display will show “rES dOnE”.
  8. At this point, remove the batteries from the display.
  9. While batteries are still out, press any key on the display at least 20 times. (This helps to drain any residual charges in the circuits)
  10. Now remove the batteries from the rain sensor and the temp/humidity sensor.
  11. Leave everything as-is for at least 10 minutes.
  12. Now go to the wind sensor and press and release the reset button recessed in the little hole on the bottom of the wind sensor. Use the provided plastic ‘rod’ or a straightened paper clip. The switch is approximately 5/8” straight inside the case. The actuation requires very little pressure. If you do it carefully you can feel (but probably not hear) a soft switch movement.
  13. Now replace the batteries in the rain sensor and temp/humidity sensor, followed by replacement of batteries in the display unit.
  14. Leave everything as-is and display untouched for at least 10 minutes.
  15. Everything should now be linked and the display should show connectivity and activity of all the sensors.
  16. If something is still not functioning, you should call LaCrosse technical support.

DIY lightning Detectors

Hi Everyone!

I began writing this email to ask if anyone had come across a DIY lightning Detector that could be mapped on a PC.  I ended up with a list of great links that I thought I would share with you!

I did find Site Mate.  It’s a FREE program to look at personal Lightning Radar sites (NO hardware required)

Simple lightning detectors – (clicks or flashes a light for each storm strike)

* Schematics for Lightning Detectors
This is the same one that Dimitris just posted.  Here’s his link:

Note that in the “reader’s versions” of the first link, one of the readers used this circuit to send a pulse to the electronic trigger of his digital camera.  This allows him to release the shutter at precisely the same time that a strike hits.  This is a GREAT idea, as anyone who’s sat in the rain with a “bulb” exposure will attest!  :-D

* Hobby Boards Lightning Detector ($32.50 assembled) Also available as a kit.

DIY Lightning Radar – (shows location of strikes on map using PC)

Personally, I was looking for DIY hardware that could produce results similar to Strikestar :

“StrikeStar allows multiple, standalone lightning detectors to form a real-time lightning locator network with much better positional accuracy.”

Strikestar is  “exclusively designed for the NexStorm software and Boltek hardware “.  Needless to say, the Boltek hardware ($599) and software ($135+)  package is very expensive.

I found two different DIY systems using two different approaches:

1. Lightning radar MDF (= magnetic-direction-finding system) by Frank Kooiman
2. TOA (= time-of-arrival system) by Egon Wanke

Gerald Iihninger’s lightning detection page gives a good overview of each system.

1. Lightning radar MDF (= magnetic-direction-finding system) by Frank Kooiman

What is Lightning Radar?

Lightning detector system with:
* 2 crossed loop antenna’s tuned to 10 kHz
* 2 simple opAmp amplifiers with gain of 100 x
* a sound card of a 1 GHz PC
* a free program that detects the direction to the source
of the lightning strike with an accuracy of 1 degree.
This program can be used at different sites to calculate
the location of the lightning strike using a trangulation method.

This system was developed as a hobby alternative to  the existing commercial Boltek lightning detector. The  advantages of the lightning radar are the low cost (€40 and up) compared to the Boltek (€350 to €600 depending on the version), the extreme sensitivity of the system, and the possibility of joining the group system  via the internet. Where Boltek detectors can detect lightning up to a range of 500km, the LR (lightning radar) has a range of 2000 to 3000km over land and several thousand km over water (e.g. lightning in Florida, south America).

One disadvantage of the LR is that it is not a plug-and-play system and therefore requires some knowledge of electronics and familiarity with a soldering iron. In practice, this is not really a disadvantage since it means that you learn a lot more about the science of detecting lightning.


Wouldn’t ya know it, but at the end of my research, I found Dimitris’ site!  I guess he’s the resident expert here!  :-D

* Dimitris site!
* Amateur Lightning Detector and Radar by Frank kooiman
* Partner Ground Station “Lightning Radar Project”
* Links for LR Stations
* San Antonio, US site w/description of Site Mate (and link to it too)
* Site Mate – FREE program to look at personal Lightning Radar sites

2. TOA (= time-of-arrival system) by Egon Wanke

This system uses a pre-amp circuit board, evaluation board, VLF antenna (ferrite rods or loop ant above), and GPS with one-pulse-per-second (1PPS) output & serial interface

3.  Commercial Systems

* Stormwise – systems and components (ferrite rods, Specialty Directional Antennas)
* Boktek – Stormtracker, LD-250, etc…
* Strikestar – software for Boltek systems

I hope this helps (and inspires) someone else!  Thanks to Dimitris for bringing up the subject!

Jon G.

LaCrosse Specific Information – hardware

LaCrosse Weather station manuals

Here is a list of PDF‘s for your LaCrosse Weather station(s):

LaCrosse 23xx Cable Pinout

Pinout for the RS-232 cable for the WS-2310/15/17

On RJ-11 Side (clip down, telephone style connector)
From left to right looking down on the connector
Color: Blue Brown Green White

On the 9 Pin D-Shell (PC Interface)
Pin...: 7 2 3 4

So Blue -> Pin 7, Brown -> Pin 2 etc.

Note that there is NO connection
to the RS-232 ground (pin 5)!!!

LaCrosse 23xx Wind Sensor Modification

This page describes how to modify the wind sensor of a La Crosse WS2300
Weather Station.
The modification was done based on hints I have received
both from La Crosse, Richard Huntington (New Zealand) and my own
Many trials have been made and this modification is the only one
that has worked for me so far.

The La Crosse WS2300 (and WS2305, WS2310) have a problem with the wind
sensor. If the cable between wind sensor and outdoor temperature/humidity sensor
is exposed to electromagnetic interference the wind sensor reading often becomes
25.5 m/s or 91.8 km/h.

The impedance level between the wind sensor and the temperature/humidity
sensor is kept pretty high to save battery power. Obviously the design is not as
robust as it could have been. But there is a reasonably easy modification that
can be done without being very technically skilled.

The modification requires the following tools

  • Side-cutting nippers
  • Tool for modular connector 6P4C (same as used for telephones)
  • Soldering iron and solder
  • Some thin copper wire or strong sewing thread
  • Screwdrivers: Pozidrive 0, Philips 0

The following material is needed

  • Category 5 Shielded Twisted Pair (STP) network cable
  • Some isolation tape or heat shrink tube

The category 5 STP cable is assumed to have 4 twisted pairs colours,
blue/blue-white, brown/brown-white, yellow/yellow-white and
If the cable you use has different colours you will have
to convert the colours. You could probably use normal shielded cable with 3
wires, but the STP cable is easy to get in a computer store and the wire gauge
will fit the modular 6P4C connector perfectly. The STP cable I have used has a
metal foil shield and an additional thin shield wire that runs along the metal

The modification is in essence replacing the unshielded and untwisted cable
between wind sensor and outdoor temperature/humidity sensor by a shielded cable
and additionally take advantage of the twisted pairs and pair the 3 signal/power
wires with a ground wire for additional noise immunity.

We start at the end of the outdoor temperature/humidity sensor.

Step 1.

Remove the outside isolation. Remove roughly 40-50 mm.

Step 2.

Assuming that your shield both has metal foil and a thin ground
wire bundle remove the metal foil. If you only have the metal foil you will have
to somehow connect a short wire to this shield.
Cut off the green/green-white
twisted pair.
The other 3 pairs are untwisted and the white pairs are cut to
a length of round 20 mm. Also the shield wire is cut to 20 mm.

Step 3.

Remove the isolation from the 3 short wires.
Additionally take the green-white wire you just cut off and remove the isolation from the tip in
one end.

Step 4.

Time to use the soldering iron.
First put some solder on all 4
wires and the ground wire.
We are now going to solder all 5 wires together.
It is almost impossible to hold 5 wires together at the same time.
With a
small copper wire or sewing thread make a small simple knot like shown.

Step 5.


Tie the 4 wires together with the copper wire so that all 4 tips
touch each other.

Step 6.


You can now easily heat the wires holding the soldering iron in
one hand and holding the 5th small loose wire in the other hand. Because you
already have put solder on the tip of all wires it is a simple matter of heating
up the solder so it all melts together.

Step 7.


You can now remove the copper wire and put some isolation tape or
heat shrink tube round the solder joint to isolate it.

Step 8.


We now need to put the 4 wires into the modular 6P4C connector (6
positions/4 contacts – also known as RJ11). The connector is the same as you use
for all sorts of telephone equipment. You can also use a 6P6C (6 positions/6
contacts) but then you have to take care to put the wires in the 4 center
Place the 4 wires as shown. The 6P4C is shown from where the cable goes
in and the lock pin down.
From left to right: Ground (white), orange, brown
and blue.

Step 9.


Carefully press the four wires all the way in maintaining the
right sequence.
With a special tool made for modular (RJ) connectors press
the connector pins in. If you do not have such a tool then you must go out and
either borrow or buy it. If you are smart you buy one that also fits the 8P8C
(RJ45) type. Then you can make your own computer network cables for ethernet. It
takes only a few cables and the cost of the tool is saved. You do not need to
invest in an expensive model since you will only be using it rarely. They all do
the job satisfactory. The expensive professional types are just nice to use and
last longer.
Since the outside isolation of the cable is not inside the
connector the strain relief is not ideal. The wires are only held by the
contacts, so it may be a good idea to support the cable with a tie wrap or
similar when you plug finally plug it into the outdoor temperature/humidity

Step 10.


Now we need to modify the wind sensor end. This is a bit more
difficult. There is the nice way and there is the easier and faster way. I chose
the nice but difficult way. Richard Huntington (New Zealand) used the simpler
and easier way and both ways are confirmed to be working. I would recommend the
easier way unless you are used to soldering on PCBs. I will show both
First the difficult way:
Take the wind sensor apart. You will
need to remove the wind mill. It is held by one small screw. When this screw is
removed you can pull off the mill.
Then you open the wind sensor housing.
This is done by removing the 3 visible screws.
Carefully take the housing
apart. Try and get familiar with how the wire is routed. The picture above shown
how it looks like before the modification. I forgot to take a picture
You now remove the existing 4 wire cable by unsoldering it from the
Remove the old solder and put a little fresh solder on each of the 4
pads. Not too much.
You now prepare the other end of the STP cable the same
way you did in steps 1 to 7. You may want to make the wires a little bit longer
so that the grounding connection is done right where the cable enters the wind
sensor housing. I do not recommend trying to solder 3 wires and a shield to one
pad on the PCB. Join them in one connection point and then route one single wire
to the ground pad on the PCB.
Make sure to put the new cable through the wind
sensor holder before putting it into the wind sensor housing. Otherwise you have
to pull maybe 10 m of thick STP cable through the holder afterwards.
Now it
is time to put it all back together again.

OK here comes the easier method.

Step 11.


Remove the wind sensor holder or bracket (the thing on the right)
from the sensor.
Cut the wire approx as shown. Close enough to the wind
sensor to make sure that the connection point is inside the plastic tube of the
holder. And far enough to make sure that you can cut away an extra piece if it
does not work out for you the first time.

Step 12.


Again make the same preparation of the STP cable as you did in
the other end.
Remove the foil.
Remove the unused green/green-white
Join all the white wires and the ground shield in one solder joint
using a small copper wire to hold them together while you solder.
difference is that this time you cut all wires to the same length.
The wire
from the wind sensor also needs to be un-isolated.
For all wires add some
solder to each tip using the soldering iron and some fresh solder (never used
the old solder that has been on the tip for minutes).
If you isolate each
wire connection with heat shrink tubes NOW it the time to add them to the 4
wires PLUS the thicker piece on the cable as well. You know you hate yourself
when you forget and have to do it all over again. If you use isolation tape you
can wrap it around after you have soldered.
Carefully solder the 4 wires
together making sure you get a good connection. By adding solder to the tip of
all the wires before you join them it is very easy to put them together with one
hand and holding the soldering iron with the other hand. You will normally not
need to add more solder. If you do not pre-solder the wire ends you will need a
third hand to hold and apply the solder.

Step 13.


When the soldering is done you can remove the copper wire you
used to hold the ground wires together.
Now isolate each wire with tape or
heat shrink tubes. Make sure that the wires are isolated from each
Then add some isolation round the entire cable to prevent humidity
from getting into the cable.

Step 14.


Push the holder into the wind sensor housing again.

You are done. All that is left is testing it. If it does not work I bet you
have mirrored the wires. If you have done it wrong inside the wind sensor you
must open it again and correct it. The ground must be connected to the shield
and the ground pairs for the shielding to work. If you mirrored at the modular
connector then you can just cut the connector off and put another the right

I have used round 11 m of wire but it should work maybe up to 30 m of
Before I made the modification, I saw the 25.5 m/s reading 2-10 times
per day. Sometimes even more. If I used a radio link instead of cable connection
I would get the false reading 1-3 times pr day. This is simply due to the fact
that the wind sensor is read less often when using radio link.
As I write
this I have not seen one single 25.5 m/s reading for more than 3 days (update:
Dec 2004 – and also after more than one year) and I run with the wire link. I am
now much more happy with my weather station since the max wind speed and min
wind chill data can now be used.

Good luck.

Kenneth Lavrsen

2003 October 24.

Original document was published here:

Modification for WS-23XX remote thermo to achieve 8 second wireless updates

This describes how to modify a Lacrosse WS2300 Weather station to transmit data every 8 seconds or so. Normally, data is sent on an intermittent basis. This can be anywhere from 32 seconds to up to 10 minutes.

Personal weather stations upload weather data to web sites such as Weather Underground.

This modification allows you to obtain transmission intervals of 8 seconds (6 seconds in this case) with the WIRELESS connection. To do this, we fake the emitter into believing it is connected to the station through the cable.


  • This has not been extensively tested. This is a hack. This hack is being provided AS IS as an informational article only. Any modifications will VOID your warranty and may damage your device.
  • This has been confirmed to work as written by 1 member (Flagbuff). Two other members from the Discuss tab have been able to make this mod work. This obviously worked for the original author as well. Proceed at your own risk, sign the Discussion if you get it to work.

Original document was published here:

Lacrosse 23xx anemometer sun fix

Sometimes, the sunlight gets into the LaCrosse anemometer body, and illuminates the photo-diodes used to report wind direction. This in turn causes incorrect wind direction readings on the console.

A possible fix is documented here: block sunlight with black paint.

William DePriest has reported “an easier fix for me was to wrap a few layers of electrical tape around the seam where it comes apart instead of actually taking it apart”.